A fault code doesn’t yet mean the unit or sensor itself is faulty: often it’s the plug and connector leading to it.
Possible causes
- Anti-theft system code mismatch between units (BCM/PCM)
- Faulty or unprogrammed key
- Anti-theft system wiring/connector problems
- Control unit or ignition switch fault
What you can do yourself
- Try the spare programmed key
- Check the battery charge and connectors
- Fixed through diagnostics by an auto electrician with equipment
Stop and don’t drive on if:
- The Check Engine light is flashing
- The temperature gauge is in the red or the overheating light is on
- The red oil pressure light is on
- Smoke from under the bonnet, a burning or petrol smell
- Strong jerking, knocking from the engine, or the car barely moves
OOleg’s tip: check the connector
Often the cause is simple — there is no contact in the connector (plug). Look at the connector from the back: remove the rubber seal and you will see whether a wire is corroded or has come off completely. Corrosion shows up as green deposits. Ideally, gently pull each wire towards you one at a time: a sound wire stays in place, while a corroded one simply comes off — it needs to be repaired.
Unplug and inspect connectors with the ignition off.
Source: aa1car.com
OA case from Oleg’s practice
- GAZ with a Cummins engine The diesel won’t start; after clearing, P2951 (injection pump metering unit) came back. The oil is too thin and there are signs of an air leak. We recommended checking the injection pump, fuel pressure, oil and compression, and not starting it until then. How it went ↗
On Oleg’s website:Car computer diagnostics ↗
The explanation comes from the error code reference in the AvtoElektrik PRO app.