A fault code doesn’t yet mean the unit or sensor itself is faulty: often it’s the plug and connector leading to it.
Possible causes
- The lamp request wire from the transmission unit to the engine ECU, or its connectors
- The lamp request wire: an open or a short to battery
- ECU (rarely)
What you can do yourself
- Look at the transmission codes: on automatic cars the transmission unit asks for the Check Engine lamp over a separate wire.
- Switch the ignition on: the Check Engine lamp should light and go out after the engine starts. If it doesn’t light, you won’t see an engine fault.
OOleg’s tip: check the connector
Often the cause is simple — there is no contact in the connector (plug). Look at the connector from the back: remove the rubber seal and you will see whether a wire is corroded or has come off completely. Corrosion shows up as green deposits. Ideally, gently pull each wire towards you one at a time: a sound wire stays in place, while a corroded one simply comes off — it needs to be repaired.
Unplug and inspect connectors with the ignition off.
This is the Hyundai meaning. On other makes this number means something else: if your car isn’t a Hyundai, change the make at the top.
Source: tat.net.au (Hyundai manufacturer codes)
On Oleg’s website:Immobilizer repair ↗
The explanation comes from the error code reference in the AvtoElektrik PRO app.