A fault code doesn’t yet mean the unit or sensor itself is faulty: often it’s the plug and connector leading to it.
Possible causes
- The OCV valve: the coil is open or shorted
- The OCV valve connector or wiring
- ECU (rarely)
What you can do yourself
- Check the OCV valve connector (on the cylinder head, by the camshaft) and its wires.
- The OCV valve coil resistance at 20 °C is usually 6.9–7.9 Ω — see the manual for your engine.
- Check the oil level and when it was last changed. Use the oil viscosity stated in the owner’s manual.
Stop and don’t drive on if:
- The Check Engine light is flashing
- The temperature gauge is in the red or the overheating light is on
- The red oil pressure light is on
- Smoke from under the bonnet, a burning or petrol smell
- Strong jerking, knocking from the engine, or the car barely moves
OOleg’s tip: check the connector
Often the cause is simple — there is no contact in the connector (plug). Look at the connector from the back: remove the rubber seal and you will see whether a wire is corroded or has come off completely. Corrosion shows up as green deposits. Ideally, gently pull each wire towards you one at a time: a sound wire stays in place, while a corroded one simply comes off — it needs to be repaired.
Unplug and inspect connectors with the ignition off.
Find the part on Kaspi ShopBefore buying, check the part number or match the part by VIN in the Kaspi “Garage”.
This is the Toyota and Lexus meaning. On other makes this number means something else: if your car isn’t a Toyota or Lexus, change the make at the top.
Source: Toyota repair manuals: Corolla 2003 RM940U, 4Runner 1996–2002; obdadvisor.com
The explanation comes from the error code reference in the AvtoElektrik PRO app.