A fault code doesn’t yet mean the unit or sensor itself is faulty: often it’s the plug and connector leading to it.
Possible causes
- The engine unit software (per GM bulletins fixed by an update)
- The revs dropped very low when moving off (manual: the clutch released without throttle)
- Low voltage: a flat battery or corroded terminals
- ECU (rarely)
What you can do yourself
- With this fault the ECU usually switches to limp mode: the engine accelerates poorly or holds only idle speed. You can drive gently for a short distance — to a workshop.
- Clear the code and check: per GM bulletin 16-NA-343 on a manual it is set when moving off with almost no throttle. If it returns, the unit is updated, not replaced.
- Check the battery and terminals: at low voltage control units lose communication.
Stop and don’t drive on if:
- The Check Engine light is flashing
- The temperature gauge is in the red or the overheating light is on
- The red oil pressure light is on
- Smoke from under the bonnet, a burning or petrol smell
- Strong jerking, knocking from the engine, or the car barely moves
OOleg’s tip: check the connector
Often the cause is simple — there is no contact in the connector (plug). Look at the connector from the back: remove the rubber seal and you will see whether a wire is corroded or has come off completely. Corrosion shows up as green deposits. Ideally, gently pull each wire towards you one at a time: a sound wire stays in place, while a corroded one simply comes off — it needs to be repaired.
Unplug and inspect connectors with the ignition off.
This is the GM meaning (Chevrolet, Cadillac, GMC). On other makes this number means something else: if your car isn’t made by GM, change the make at the top.
Source: GM 16-NA-343, 13-00-89-004I (static.nhtsa.gov)
The explanation comes from the error code reference in the AvtoElektrik PRO app.