A fault code doesn’t yet mean the unit or sensor itself is faulty: often it’s the plug and connector leading to it.
Possible causes
- An air leak after the MAF sensor: a cracked intake boot, a loose clamp, a vacuum hose
- The MAF sensor is dirty or faulty
- The throttle position sensor or its connector
- Air filter badly clogged
What you can do yourself
- Check the obvious: clamps and the intake boot after the MAF, vacuum lines (cracks, popped-off hoses), the brake booster hose, the PCV valve, the oil filler cap and the dipstick.
- Check the air filter and the MAF and throttle sensor connectors.
Stop and don’t drive on if:
- The Check Engine light is flashing
- The temperature gauge is in the red or the overheating light is on
- The red oil pressure light is on
- Smoke from under the bonnet, a burning or petrol smell
- Strong jerking, knocking from the engine, or the car barely moves
OOleg’s tip: check the connector
Often the cause is simple — there is no contact in the connector (plug). Look at the connector from the back: remove the rubber seal and you will see whether a wire is corroded or has come off completely. Corrosion shows up as green deposits. Ideally, gently pull each wire towards you one at a time: a sound wire stays in place, while a corroded one simply comes off — it needs to be repaired.
Unplug and inspect connectors with the ignition off.
This is the Hyundai meaning. On other makes this number means something else: if your car isn’t a Hyundai, change the make at the top.
Source: tat.net.au (Hyundai manufacturer codes)
The explanation comes from the error code reference in the AvtoElektrik PRO app.