A fault code doesn’t yet mean the unit or sensor itself is faulty: often it’s the plug and connector leading to it.
Possible causes
- Sensor connector or wiring: corrosion, an open circuit, a chafed wire
- The sensor itself
- Sensor 5 V supply (shared with other sensors)
What you can do yourself
- Check the temperature on the “Sensors” tab: −40 °C means an open circuit.
- With this code the fan may run all the time and the engine may be hard to start.
Stop and don’t drive on if:
- The Check Engine light is flashing
- The temperature gauge is in the red or the overheating light is on
- The red oil pressure light is on
- Smoke from under the bonnet, a burning or petrol smell
- Strong jerking, knocking from the engine, or the car barely moves
OOleg’s tip: check the connector
Often the cause is simple — there is no contact in the connector (plug). Look at the connector from the back: remove the rubber seal and you will see whether a wire is corroded or has come off completely. Corrosion shows up as green deposits. Ideally, gently pull each wire towards you one at a time: a sound wire stays in place, while a corroded one simply comes off — it needs to be repaired.
Unplug and inspect connectors with the ignition off.
Find the part on Kaspi ShopBefore buying, check the part number or match the part by VIN in the Kaspi “Garage”.
OA case from Oleg’s practice
- Sinotruk 2025 Mileage 5 000 km, temperature and thermostat codes (P1000, P0115, P07CB) and others; after clearing, most didn’t come back. The AdBlue warning was just a low urea level: it went away after topping up. While we were at it, we switched the instrument cluster to Russian. How it went ↗
The explanation comes from the error code reference in the AvtoElektrik PRO app.