A fault code doesn’t yet mean the unit or sensor itself is faulty: often it’s the plug and connector leading to it.
Possible causes
- Low voltage: a flat battery or corroded terminals
- The ABS unit’s fuse or power supply
- The ABS unit’s ground: a corroded or loose ground bolt
- The ABS unit connector: corrosion, water
- The ABS unit itself
What you can do yourself
- With this fault ABS usually switches off: the ordinary brakes still work, but without ABS the wheels can lock. Brake smoothly and leave a bigger gap, especially on slippery roads.
- If the code is stored in the power steering unit, the steering may get heavy — take care in corners.
- First check the battery and the ABS unit’s fuses and ground: with a poor supply the unit logs an internal fault.
- Write the codes down, clear them and check again: after a flat battery, a repair or voltage spikes, codes that are no longer current stay in memory.
Stop and don’t drive on if:
- The red brake light is on, or the brake pedal feels soft or sinks
- The steering became very heavy, or the car pulls to one side when braking
OOleg’s tip: check the connector
Often the cause is simple — there is no contact in the connector (plug). Look at the connector from the back: remove the rubber seal and you will see whether a wire is corroded or has come off completely. Corrosion shows up as green deposits. Ideally, gently pull each wire towards you one at a time: a sound wire stays in place, while a corroded one simply comes off — it needs to be repaired.
Unplug and inspect connectors with the ignition off.
This is the GM meaning. Under the SAE standard and on other makes this number means something else: if your car isn’t a GM, change the make at the top.
Source: websites.umich.edu, ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com
The explanation comes from the error code reference in the AvtoElektrik PRO app.