A fault code doesn’t yet mean the unit or sensor itself is faulty: often it’s the plug and connector leading to it.
Possible causes
- Key(s) not matched to the system
- Instrument panel (cluster) not matched
- Engine control unit (ECU) not matched
- ECU power supply problems; low battery voltage can cause immobilizer malfunctions
What you can do yourself
- Check the battery charge — diagnostics are done only with a good battery
- Typical sign — starts and immediately stalls
- Read the codes specifically from the immobilizer unit (often in the instrument cluster)
- Matching the key/instrument cluster/ECU — see an auto electrician with VCDS/dealer equipment
Stop and don’t drive on if:
- The Check Engine light is flashing
- The temperature gauge is in the red or the overheating light is on
- The red oil pressure light is on
- Smoke from under the bonnet, a burning or petrol smell
- Strong jerking, knocking from the engine, or the car barely moves
Source: wiki.ross-tech.com
OA case from Oleg’s practice
- SsangYong 2006 Starts in the morning, but after warming up and being switched off it starts only once it cools down; code P1570 (immobilizer lockout). The culprit was the immobilizer antenna amplifier: chilled in a freezer, it worked. After replacement it starts hot too. How it went ↗
On Oleg’s website:Car computer diagnostics ↗
The explanation comes from the error code reference in the AvtoElektrik PRO app.