A fault code doesn’t yet mean the unit or sensor itself is faulty: often it’s the plug and connector leading to it.
Possible causes
- The sensor connector: dirt, water, corroded pins
- The sensor wire is chafed or broken — in the wheel arch, by the shock absorber or at the bend near the hub
- The sensor itself
- ECU (rarely)
What you can do yourself
- A scan tool’s live data shows each wheel’s speed: while driving, this wheel should read the same as the others.
- Inspect the wheel sensors and their wires up to the connectors: dirt, corroded contacts, chafed insulation.
Stop and don’t drive on if:
- The Check Engine light is flashing
- The temperature gauge is in the red or the overheating light is on
- The red oil pressure light is on
- Smoke from under the bonnet, a burning or petrol smell
- Strong jerking, knocking from the engine, or the car barely moves
OOleg’s tip: check the connector
Often the cause is simple — there is no contact in the connector (plug). Look at the connector from the back: remove the rubber seal and you will see whether a wire is corroded or has come off completely. Corrosion shows up as green deposits. Ideally, gently pull each wire towards you one at a time: a sound wire stays in place, while a corroded one simply comes off — it needs to be repaired.
Unplug and inspect connectors with the ignition off.
This is the Hyundai meaning. On other makes this number means something else: if your car isn’t a Hyundai, change the make at the top.
Source: tat.net.au (Hyundai manufacturer codes)
The explanation comes from the error code reference in the AvtoElektrik PRO app.