A fault code doesn’t yet mean the unit or sensor itself is faulty: often it’s the plug and connector leading to it.
Possible causes
- The timing belt jumped or the timing chain is stretched
- The timing marks were set incorrectly after timing belt or chain work
- Dirty oil or wrong viscosity, low oil level
- The camshaft sensor or its connector
- ECU (rarely)
What you can do yourself
- Check the oil level and when it was last changed. Use the oil viscosity stated in the owner’s manual.
- If the code appeared after timing belt or chain work, check the timing marks.
- If the code comes back or the engine knocks when cold — check the timing chain.
Stop and don’t drive on if:
- The Check Engine light is flashing
- The temperature gauge is in the red or the overheating light is on
- The red oil pressure light is on
- Smoke from under the bonnet, a burning or petrol smell
- Strong jerking, knocking from the engine, or the car barely moves
OOleg’s tip: check the connector
Often the cause is simple — there is no contact in the connector (plug). Look at the connector from the back: remove the rubber seal and you will see whether a wire is corroded or has come off completely. Corrosion shows up as green deposits. Ideally, gently pull each wire towards you one at a time: a sound wire stays in place, while a corroded one simply comes off — it needs to be repaired.
Unplug and inspect connectors with the ignition off.
Bank 2 exists only on V6 and V8 engines — it is the cylinder bank without cylinder 1. This is the Toyota and Lexus meaning. On other makes this number means something else: if your car isn’t a Toyota or Lexus, change the make at the top.
Source: obdadvisor.com (Toyota manufacturer codes)
The explanation comes from the error code reference in the AvtoElektrik PRO app.