A fault code doesn’t yet mean the unit or sensor itself is faulty: often it’s the plug and connector leading to it.
Possible causes
- This cylinder’s ignition coil (the igniter is built into the coil)
- Coil connector or wiring
- The shared IGF signal wire from the coils to the ECU: an open or short circuit
- Coil power supply: fuse or relay
- ECU (rarely)
What you can do yourself
- Swap this cylinder’s coil with the neighbouring one and clear the code. If the misfire “moves” to the other cylinder, the coil is to blame.
- Check the connectors of all coils. If the code is set for several cylinders at once, look for the shared IGF wire or the coils’ power supply.
- Unscrew the spark plug: soot, oil or a cracked insulator — replace it.
Stop and don’t drive on if:
- The Check Engine light is flashing
- The temperature gauge is in the red or the overheating light is on
- The red oil pressure light is on
- Smoke from under the bonnet, a burning or petrol smell
- Strong jerking, knocking from the engine, or the car barely moves
OOleg’s tip: check the connector
Often the cause is simple — there is no contact in the connector (plug). Look at the connector from the back: remove the rubber seal and you will see whether a wire is corroded or has come off completely. Corrosion shows up as green deposits. Ideally, gently pull each wire towards you one at a time: a sound wire stays in place, while a corroded one simply comes off — it needs to be repaired.
Unplug and inspect connectors with the ignition off.
Find the part on Kaspi ShopBefore buying, check the part number or match the part by VIN in the Kaspi “Garage”.
This number appears on 6- and 8-cylinder engines. This is the Toyota and Lexus meaning. On other makes this number means something else: if your car isn’t a Toyota or Lexus, change the make at the top.
Source: obdadvisor.com (Toyota manufacturer codes), tat.net.au
The explanation comes from the error code reference in the AvtoElektrik PRO app.