Meaning for specific makes
The same number can mean different things for different makes. Below is the make-specific meaning.
Toyota, Lexus: VSC: zero point calibration of yaw rate sensor undone
Don’t put off the repair
A fault code doesn’t yet mean the unit or sensor itself is faulty: often it’s the plug and connector leading to it.
Possible causes
- The battery was disconnected, or the sensor or ABS unit was replaced or removed
- A wheel alignment or suspension repair was done
What you can do yourself
- The zero-point calibration is done with a scan tool, with the car standing level and still. After calibration the light goes out.
- ESP and traction control, and sometimes ABS, may not work. The brakes still work, but without electronic help — on slippery roads brake smoothly and don’t accelerate hard.
Stop and don’t drive on if:
- The red brake light is on, or the brake pedal feels soft or sinks
- The steering became very heavy, or the car pulls to one side when braking
VSC is Toyota’s stability control system (the same as ESP). This is the Toyota and Lexus meaning. On other makes this number means something else: if your car isn’t a Toyota or Lexus, change the make at the top.
Source: Toyota 4Runner 1996–2002 repair manual (ether3al.com), obdadvisor.com
Hyundai, Kia: ABS/ESC: rear right wheel speed sensor — range/performance or intermittent
Don’t put off the repair
A fault code doesn’t yet mean the unit or sensor itself is faulty: often it’s the plug and connector leading to it.
OOleg’s tip: it’s not always the sensor
It may not be the sensor itself but what it reads the signal from: the tone ring on the hub or axle shaft, or, on many cars, a magnetic ring that is built into the wheel bearing itself. Dirt, rust, a crack or damaged teeth, or bearing play — and there’s no signal even though the sensor is fine.
Remove the sensor and, turning the wheel slowly, look at the tone ring: are all the teeth intact and clean? Rock the wheel by hand — bearing play also disrupts the signal. The magnetic ring isn’t replaced separately: it’s part of the bearing.
Possible causes
- This wheel’s speed sensor
- The sensor connector: dirt, water, corroded pins
- The sensor wire is chafed or broken — in the wheel arch, by the shock absorber or at the bend near the hub
- The tone ring or the bearing’s magnetic ring: a crack, dirt, stuck-on metal shavings, bearing play
- The sensor isn’t seated properly: too big a gap to the ring, or rust under the sensor
What you can do yourself
- With this fault ABS usually switches off: the ordinary brakes still work, but without ABS the wheels can lock. Brake smoothly and leave a bigger gap, especially on slippery roads.
- Inspect this wheel’s sensor and its wire up to the connector: dirt, corroded pins, chafed insulation. Clean the connector, remove the sensor and clean its tip and its seat of dirt and rust.
- If the car went through water, especially salt water, check the rear sensors and their connectors for moisture and corrosion: per Hyundai and Kia bulletins water gets into the sensor housing.
- Check whether the tone ring on the hub has shifted: per a Kia bulletin, if it has moved or come loose the hub is replaced.
- Check the tone ring or the bearing’s magnetic ring: cracks, damaged teeth, stuck-on metal shavings. Don’t clean a magnetic ring with a magnet.
Stop and don’t drive on if:
- The red brake light is on, or the brake pedal feels soft or sinks
- The steering became very heavy, or the car pulls to one side when braking
OOleg’s tip: check the connector
Often the cause is simple — there is no contact in the connector (plug). Look at the connector from the back: remove the rubber seal and you will see whether a wire is corroded or has come off completely. Corrosion shows up as green deposits. Ideally, gently pull each wire towards you one at a time: a sound wire stays in place, while a corroded one simply comes off — it needs to be repaired.
Unplug and inspect connectors with the ignition off.
Find the part on Kaspi ShopBefore buying, check the part number or match the part by VIN in the Kaspi “Garage”.
ESC is the Hyundai and Kia stability control system (the same as ESP). This is the Hyundai and Kia meaning. On other makes this number means something else: if your car isn’t a Hyundai or Kia, change the make at the top.
Source: Hyundai TSB 17-01-009-1, Kia TSB SC301Y (static.nhtsa.gov)
Need a mechanic’s help?
Couldn’t fix it yourself? Oleg, an auto electrician, does computer diagnostics and repairs: he comes out anywhere in Almaty or sees you at his workshop.
Want to figure it out yourself?
Oleg’s course “Car computer diagnostics with a scan tool”: how to hook up a scanner, read codes and live data, and use them to find the cause. The first lessons are free.
Nearby codes
- C1206ABS/ESC: rear left wheel speed sensor — open or shortHyundai, Kia
- C1207ABS/ESC: rear left wheel speed sensor — range/performance or intermittentHyundai, Kia
- C1208ABS/ESC: rear left wheel speed sensor — no signal or invalid signalHyundai, Kia
- C1209ABS/ESC: rear right wheel speed sensor — open or shortHyundai, Kia
- C1211ABS/ESC: rear right wheel speed sensor — no signal or invalid signalHyundai, Kia
- C1212ABS/ESC: vehicle speed sensor failureHyundai, Kia
- C1223VSC: ABS control system malfunctionToyota, Lexus
- C1231VSC: steering angle sensor circuit malfunctionToyota, Lexus
Who keeps this reference
The reference is kept by Oleg Dmitriev, an auto electrician from Almaty with 26 years of experience: computer diagnostics of cars and trucks, repair of control units (ECUs). Can’t find the cause? Message him.