A fault code doesn’t yet mean the unit or sensor itself is faulty: often it’s the plug and connector leading to it.
OOleg’s tip: it’s not always the sensor
It may not be the sensor itself but what it reads the signal from: the tone ring on the hub or axle shaft, or, on many cars, a magnetic ring that is built into the wheel bearing itself. Dirt, rust, a crack or damaged teeth, or bearing play — and there’s no signal even though the sensor is fine.
Remove the sensor and, turning the wheel slowly, look at the tone ring: are all the teeth intact and clean? Rock the wheel by hand — bearing play also disrupts the signal. The magnetic ring isn’t replaced separately: it’s part of the bearing.
Possible causes
- A sensor for a different model or the other side was fitted
- A hub or bearing without a magnetic ring or with a different number of teeth
- A passive sensor fitted instead of an active one (or vice versa)
What you can do yourself
- With this fault ABS usually switches off: the ordinary brakes still work, but without ABS the wheels can lock. Brake smoothly and leave a bigger gap, especially on slippery roads.
- Check the new sensor’s or hub’s part number against the original by VIN.
- If the code appeared after a hub or bearing replacement or suspension work, first check that the sensor and connector are in place and the wire isn’t pinched.
Stop and don’t drive on if:
- The red brake light is on, or the brake pedal feels soft or sinks
- The steering became very heavy, or the car pulls to one side when braking
The explanation comes from the error code reference in the AvtoElektrik PRO app.