A fault code doesn’t yet mean the unit or sensor itself is faulty: often it’s the plug and connector leading to it.
Possible causes
- The valve or its coil inside the ABS unit
- The ABS unit’s fuse or power supply
- The ABS unit’s ground: a corroded or loose ground bolt
- The ABS unit connector: corrosion, water
- Low voltage: a flat battery or corroded terminals
What you can do yourself
- With this fault ABS usually switches off: the ordinary brakes still work, but without ABS the wheels can lock. Brake smoothly and leave a bigger gap, especially on slippery roads.
- The valves are inside the ABS (hydraulic) unit. First check the unit’s fuses, power and ground, then the unit itself.
Stop and don’t drive on if:
- The red brake light is on, or the brake pedal feels soft or sinks
- The steering became very heavy, or the car pulls to one side when braking
OOleg’s tip: check the connector
Often the cause is simple — there is no contact in the connector (plug). Look at the connector from the back: remove the rubber seal and you will see whether a wire is corroded or has come off completely. Corrosion shows up as green deposits. Ideally, gently pull each wire towards you one at a time: a sound wire stays in place, while a corroded one simply comes off — it needs to be repaired.
Unplug and inspect connectors with the ignition off.
On cars with flash-code self-diagnosis the ABS light shows this code as 23. This is the Toyota and Lexus meaning. On other makes this number means something else: if your car isn’t a Toyota or Lexus, change the make at the top.
Source: Toyota 4Runner 1996–2002 repair manual (ether3al.com)
The explanation comes from the error code reference in the AvtoElektrik PRO app.