A fault code doesn’t yet mean the unit or sensor itself is faulty: often it’s the plug and connector leading to it.
Possible causes
- The pads have worn down to the sensor — time to replace them
- The sensor wire is broken or the connector is corroded
- A new sensor wasn’t fitted when the pads were replaced
What you can do yourself
- Check the pad thickness: if 2–3 mm is left, replace the pads together with the sensor.
- A metallic grinding noise when braking means the pads are down to the metal: don’t put it off, or you’ll ruin the discs and the brakes will get worse.
Stop and don’t drive on if:
- The red brake light is on, or the brake pedal feels soft or sinks
- The steering became very heavy, or the car pulls to one side when braking
OOleg’s tip: check the connector
Often the cause is simple — there is no contact in the connector (plug). Look at the connector from the back: remove the rubber seal and you will see whether a wire is corroded or has come off completely. Corrosion shows up as green deposits. Ideally, gently pull each wire towards you one at a time: a sound wire stays in place, while a corroded one simply comes off — it needs to be repaired.
Unplug and inspect connectors with the ignition off.
Find the part on Kaspi ShopBefore buying, check the part number or match the part by VIN in the Kaspi “Garage”.
If the scan tool shows the code with a suffix after a dash (for example, C0031-1D), that’s the fault detail: 01 — general electrical failure, 1D — circuit current out of range, 29 — invalid signal, 2F — erratic signal, 62 — signal doesn’t match the others.
The explanation comes from the error code reference in the AvtoElektrik PRO app.